Canine supplements: does your dog need vitamins and food additives?
Vitamin and mineral balance is important for both humans and dogs. The menu for a pet, popular among many owners, consisting of a variety of soups, cereals, stews and other dishes, can hardly become a serious source of nutrients and vitamins for a dog - it is, rather, support for the correct functioning of the digestive tract, nothing more. In addition, modern technologies for processing products in production reduce the content of nutrients in them to a minimum. Dog vitamins and their features Ready-made industrial dog food contains multivitamin complexes and even in many ways solves the problem of lack of substances that are indispensable for normal life. But even in this case, one should not hope for an absolute result: who will be able to guarantee the complete assimilation of individual components of the feed and their effective interaction in certain areas of the dog's gastrointestinal tract? Modern pharmacology knows more than 30 types of vitamins, but you should not try to "feed" them all to the dog to waste. Even a small amount of substances (up to several hundredths of a milligram per day) already has a beneficial effect on metabolic processes, stimulates the proper development of organs and systems, and in general has a very positive effect on the general condition of the dog. It makes no sense to describe all the vitamins and supplements necessary for dogs, but it is still worth dwelling in more detail on the most famous and most significant ones. Vitamin A (retinol) Dog growth factor, maintenance of vision and good skin condition, development of the animal's skeletal system and improvement of reproductive functions. Many people associate vitamin A with carrots, and for good reason: an orange pigment obtained from red carrots. Other products rich in vitamin A: sea fish, which the dog owners often dislike due to its lower nutritional value and abundance of bones. You can add fish oil or vitamin A on an oil basis to the diet. Vitamins of group B They provide normal metabolic processes, have a regulating effect on the functions of the central nervous system, stimulate hematopoiesis, and normalize liver function. B vitamins facilitate shedding, give the coat a shiny, healthy look, and prevent skin flaking. The richest source of vitamins of this group is brewer's yeast! Yeast protein is complete and highly digestible. It contains most of the essential amino acids. Also, brewer's yeast helps to increase the efficiency of digestion, as it serves as an excellent nutrient medium for the development of normal gastric microflora. Due to its properties, brewer's yeast increases the body's resistance to diseases and significantly shortens the recovery period, has a general strengthening effect on animals. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) The level of immunity depends, first of all, on ascorbic acid. C-hypovitaminosis is the most common occurrence in dogs, since the amount of this vitamin in many foods varies depending on the season (in winter and spring its content is less). In addition, cooking and long-term storage of food partially destroys vitamin C. Therefore, fruits, herbs and vegetables (potatoes, cabbage, spinach) should be included in the dog's diet. Liver also contains a lot of vitamin C. Prevention and treatment of hypovitaminosis is carried out using a dosage form of vitamin C. Vitamin D (calciferol). Forms immunity and regulates calcium-phosphorus metabolism in the dog's body. A deficiency can cause rickets (in puppies) and osteoporosis (in adult dogs). Yeast and fish oil are indispensable for the diet as a source of vitamin D. Vitamin E (tocopherol) A powerful antioxidant that maintains the reproductive function of the dog at the required level and promotes the development of muscles, therefore, its deficiency, although rare, is dangerous to the occurrence of infertility. Vitamin E is found in sufficient quantities in cereals (oat and buckwheat), vegetable oil and egg yolk, in meat products. Vitamin K (phylloquinone) Vitamin K is directly involved in the blood clotting process. A deficiency of this substance is observed in dogs with intestinal and liver diseases, as well as in puppies that do not get enough vitamin K from their mother's milk. K-avitaminosis is manifested by numerous hemorrhages in the neck, back, sternum and hind limbs. Large amounts of vitamin K are found in spinach and cabbage. PP (nicotinic acid) Vitamin PP is used to treat and prevent dermatitis, which manifests itself on the skin with dark brown pigment spots, cracks and is accompanied by disruption of the central nervous system and diarrhea, as a result of which the dog's body is depleted. This vitamin is prescribed for dry skin, inflammation of the gastrointestinal tract and some nervous diseases after a plague. At the same time, the dog's diet includes the main sources of vitamin PP - fish, meat, liver of farm animals, cheese, legumes and yeast. Canine supplements Today our pet market offers a huge variety of vitamin and mineral complexes for dogs. Oddly enough, there is no unified classification of vitamin preparations for dogs, but for ease of understanding, conditionally, all supplements can be divided into several groups: Vitamin and mineral preparations of general action (multivitamins); Corrective vitamin and mineral preparations; Vitamin and mineral preparations of enhanced action. Each group is designed to prevent and solve a certain type of problem. Vitamins of general action are fortifying vitamin and mineral complexes, which include substances essential for the active life of a dog: vitamins A, D, E, vitamins of group B, as well as potassium, phosphorus, calcium and other useful micro- and macroelements. A competently and carefully selected composition of the multivitamin complex has a beneficial effect on all systems and organs of the dog, strengthens the immune system and reduces the risk of infectious diseases. In addition, manufacturers delight pets with a variety of tastes of vitamin supplements: it can be liver, cheese, beef, salmon and other flavors. The group of corrective vitamins for dogs was created to prevent diseases, improve the body, prevent or eliminate existing health problems. This also determines their composition: the content of specific substances necessary to achieve certain goals can be increased in the preparation, or additional ingredients can be introduced that actively affect the problem area of the animal's body. Corrective vitamin supplements are preparations for hair and skin, strengthening the musculoskeletal system, improving vision, reducing shedding time, etc. Vitamins for aging animals, for puppies and dogs of large and small breeds, which allow maintaining the vital activity of the animal at the proper level, can be attributed to the same category. For ease of use, vitamins for dogs are available in various dosage forms: paste, capsules, tablets, oil solutions, injections. You, as a responsible owner, must always remember: in order not to harm the health of your ward, it is very important to give vitamins in doses recommended by the manufacturer and no longer than the period indicated on the package. Vitamins of enhanced action are intended for the most active dogs: training, working and fighting dogs. The same group is recommended for emaciated and weakened pets who have suffered injuries or infectious diseases, as well as during the recovery period after surgery. These preparations are based on a unique ratio of active nutrients that help strengthen the immune system, build muscle mass and increase the dog's stamina level. This is a kind of "energy cocktail" that effectively restores strength, so necessary for an inquisitive and active dog.
Can you Give Bones to Dogs?
All dogs, without exception, love to gnaw bones, and the owners are happy to buy these inexpensive meat production waste for their pets. But can dogs be given bones, will they not harm the health of animals? We will try to answer this question in today's article. Why should a dog gnaw bones? Many owners find it very beneficial to give their dogs bones. This solid product supposedly keeps the teeth of animals sharp. But in fact, the bones do not sharpen a dog's teeth at all, but they can damage the enamel, even a tooth breakage is not excluded. So are the bones completely useless? Bones in a dog's diet have several important tasks: 1. Cleaning their teeth from plaque. The animal, gnawing a large femur, removes food particles stuck between the teeth, and brushes off the accumulated plaque, which is based on bacteria. But it is worth noting that it is not the bare bones themselves that clean the teeth, but the cartilages that frame the ends of the bones; 2. Massage of gums. Moderately hard bones and cartilage (always after heat treatment - at least soaked in boiling water for 5 minutes), when the dog gnaws them, press on the gums, massaging them and preventing the development of such ailments as periodontal disease and gingivitis. 3. It is also important to mention that bones are great natural toys for dogs. Many dogs can play with the bone for a long time, without requiring attention from the owner. What bones for dogs are prohibited? Veterinarians agree that bones are not the best food for dogs. And that's why: 1. Raw pork bones are dangerous for dogs due to helminth infection. In addition, the meat on such bones is too fat for dogs; 2. Giving chicken bones to dogs is also prohibited. They are small and fragile, almost any dog can easily swallow them, biting into several sharp fragments. These pieces of bone can not only injure the digestive tract, but literally lie in the stomach or intestines for years; 3. Turkey bones are very hard and much larger than chicken bones. They can easily choke a dog or damage the esophagus, stomach or intestines. In general, the tubular bones of any bird are taboo for a dog, an animal can die from internal bleeding; 4. Goose and duck bones for dogs are prohibited. First of all, they are quite large, since such a bird is slaughtered in adulthood. And secondly, they are very sharp, and therefore dangerous. When eating such bones, the animal can easily suffocate if a sharp fragment gets stuck in the respiratory system; 5. Rabbit bones are small and very sharp, and therefore dangerous. They can injure the dog's tongue and gums, get stuck in the throat, or injure the stomach. The only thing such bones are suitable for is cooking broth, which can then be added to the dog's porridge (by the way, you can cook broth on bird bones); 6. Fish with bones should not be given to the dog, even if the bones are very small. They can easily get stuck in the throat, which can lead to breathing difficulties; 7. Raw bones of questionable quality. Needless to say, bones for dogs should be purchased at specialized points where veterinary and sanitary examination is carried out. Believe me, a stale bone can cause severe poisoning in a dog, and a bone from a sick animal generally threatens a doggie with death; 8. Boiled bones (more precisely, well-boiled) are also quite dangerous, as they clump in the dog's digestive tract, causing intestinal obstruction. If the animal accidentally swallowed a "forbidden", say, boiled chicken or rabbit bone, it is better to give it a little petroleum jelly oil (liquid paraffin) so that the uninvited spicy "guest"; leaves the animal's digestive system as soon as possible. For 10 kg of the dog's weight, 0.5 tablespoons of vaseline oil should fall; 9. Lamb bones. They are not as dangerous as anything mentioned above. But it is important to ensure that these are, firstly, spongy bones, and secondly, from a young animal, that is, not hard enough. In addition to injuries to the gastrointestinal tract, frequent feeding of bones to the dog is fraught with the development of a terrible disease - peritonitis. This is an inflammation of the abdominal cavity, which is often caused by mechanical trauma in the form of injury to the digestive system with sharp fragments of bones. What bones can you give to dogs? What bones should not be given to dogs, we found out above. And what bones can you give to the dog? It is believed that the only acceptable option for an adult animal is the bones of the thigh of a cow or bull, or rather, their articular parts. They are otherwise called sugar bones for the pure white color of their heads, similar to sugar. You can give the dog such beef bones so that it gnaws and eats cartilage, gnaws at the meat, and massages the gums a little. But the dog cannot be allowed to gnaw moslak for hours in order to avoid injury to the teeth. The fact is that prolonged contact with the hard surface of the bone leads to inevitable grinding of the teeth. It is best to pamper your dog with bones no more than 1-2 times a month. Puppies can eat beef ribs, or rather cartilage and meat that are attached to the bone, under the master's supervision. Bare rib bones from babies need to be taken away in time. At what age can a puppy be given bones? Well, if you can sometimes feed a dog with bones, then at what age? Veterinarians believe that the earliest age when a dog can be treated with a bone is 3-4 months. And then, provided that the bones are large enough that the puppy will definitely not be able to chew. When all the cartilage and meat are eaten, the bone must be taken from the baby dog without regret so that he does not bite off and swallow its sharp fragment. When giving a small puppy a bone, the owner must watch him relentlessly. From all of the above, the following conclusion follows: • The only bones suitable for dogs are beef; • Dogs should only be given bones in the presence of the owner. And it doesn't matter what age the animal is: both an adult dog and a puppy can suffer from a sharp bone fragment; • It is better to give the dog bones after a short heat treatment, but always from a healthy cow. You shouldn't buy bones in questionable places, even if they are very cheap; • Old, stale bones are dangerous (including those that the dog can dig out from the ground while walking). They can seriously poison the animal; • Bare bones (without meat and cartilage) are completely useless. The dog can neither get enough nor get any nutritional benefit from them. The only advantage of bones without cartilage and meat is that they can act as a toy for an animal; • The dog can be periodically treated with beef bones (once or twice a month), but literally, you cannot feed the animal with bones (any) daily. Dogs require meat, which is usually very scarce on the bones; • It is undesirable to give bones to those dogs that have problems with teeth and gums in order to avoid injury. Also, it is better to refuse bones if the animal has problems with the digestive system, for example, with constipation; • Do not regale the bones of very young puppies, as well as older dogs. Their teeth can be harmed by hard bones. If desired, it is better to treat old pets with a tendon bone from a pet store; • Any bone is potentially dangerous (even large beef). Therefore, it is better to always keep the number and address of the veterinary clinic on hand so that, if necessary, immediately deliver the dog to see a doctor. If, after treating it with a bone, the dog begins to choke, cough, if it is salivating profusely, vomiting is present (or there is an urge to vomit), there is blood in the feces or vomit, then the visit to the doctor cannot be postponed until later. Take care of yourself and your pets. With love to your dogs, Dogrook
How to care for different types of wool
Wool can tell us about a dog’s health: a dull, tousled brittle coat can indicate the onset of various diseases, including dermatological ones. Therefore, proper care is not only appearance, but also health. There are six types of wool: Long (collie, shih tzu, yorkshire terrier, golden retriever). Average (Labrador, Central Asian Shepherd Dog, German Shepherd Dog). Smooth (dachshund, basenji, bulldogs). Tough (West Highland White Terrier, Airedale, Giant Schnauzer). Curly (Bichon Frize, Poodle, Kerry Blue Terrier, Bedlington Terrier). Exotic wool (bullets, commander, Mexican naked). It is important to choose the right tool for each type of coat.There are several types of combs for dogs: The simplest single-row comb is necessary for combing not too thick, but long hair; Comb with bristles instead of teeth. It can be used to comb out the longest hair and gently unravel the tangles. Moreover, this procedure is also a massage. This brush can also be used for short-haired dogs; Slicker. Comb with fine metal teeth. They are curved and the tips are rounded. This tool is designed to remove dead undercoat hairs; Furminator is a recent invention, with which you can comb dogs with any coat, as well as completely get rid of the fallen out part of the undercoat in one go; Rake comb — considered a good addition to the furminator if bald patches occur. The principle of operation is similar, but the effect on the wool is more gentle; Comb-glove quickly and effectively removes hairs that have fallen out during shedding from the coat; Double-sided comb for removing dust and dirt from the coat, suitable for different types of wool; Combs with movable teeth are effective for combing out a dog that does not tolerate the procedure. The tool is not painful, but not suitable for very long coats; Combs with teeth of various lengths also do not cause unpleasant sensations, allow you to unravel matted hair and remove fallen undercoat hairs; Trimming and stripping tools — special devices for straightening guard hairs and removing undercoat hair. Short teeth of the tools are located on the blade, which allows you to quickly and efficiently carry out all manipulations; Elf-lock cutter. A comb with sharp teeth, designed not only for untangling tangles, but also for cutting them if the area of wool is no longer amenable to combing. Long coat grooming The long coat looks very nice, but it requires serious maintenance. The main rule is regular combing. All basic care is based on it, because with insufficient combing, mats are quickly formed. There are many tools available for combing this type of wool, but it is best to opt for a wide-toothed comb. It is better if it is made from natural materials. Also, the area around the eyes, around the anus, between the pads of the paws needs special care. This wool needs to be clipped. It is worth bathing a long-haired dog as it gets dirty. For washing, choose products suitable for the type of wool. Professional groomers can help you with this choice. Care for coarse hair Coarse coats are renowned for the fact that, with proper care, wire-haired dogs do not shed. Caring for coarse coats is based on three pillars: combing, cutting, trimming. But the main thing is still trimming (pulling out dead hair), because such hair does not fall out by itself. You can learn to do this procedure yourself. But initially, you should contact a specialist and observe his work. Care for smooth coat of dogs One of the easiest to care for. For a smooth-haired dog, it is enough to wash it as it gets dirty and comb once a week. During the moulting period, a smooth-haired dog needs to be combed out a little more often. You will need a massage rubber glove brush. Grooming for medium length coats For dogs with such a coat, shedding periods are most characteristic. Grooming for these dogs is pretty simple. They need to be washed as they become dirty. To comb out, you need a medium hard slicker and a furminator. It is necessary to comb the dog once a week, during molting — daily. Exotic wool care Owners of exotic wool cannot be attributed to any subgroup. For example, the Mexican hairless dog is completely devoid of hair, and the Komondor has hair that curls into bundles (dreadlocks). They are extremely specific in care. In order to learn how to care for such dogs, you need to contact a specialist who will train you. It is necessary to study so as not to harm your pet. A well-groomed, clean dog with shiny coat pleases the eye not only for the owner, but also for those around him. With love to your dogs, DogRook!
Electric Collar for Dog Training: Pros and Cons, Application Features
An electric collar is a special device equipped with an electrical element, a control panel is included. It is designed to facilitate human efforts while training a dog. What is it? There are many models, but they differ from each other in the number of levels of impact and the strength of the electrical impulses applied to the four-legged pet. On the remote control, you can adjust the duration of electrical impulses. In order not to cause psychological and physical harm to the animal, good and high-quality collars have a limit of electric shocks, after which the device automatically turns off for a while. Experienced breeders do not recommend that beginners often use an electric collar for their pet. And to use only during training and when correcting the behavior of the dog in certain cases. How to use it? Use the electric collar gradually, and not immediately after putting it on the dog’s neck. You need to give your pet time to get used to the new device, it usually takes 5–7 days. This must be done just before the walk. The dog will be interested in a new and unfamiliar object, so the electric collar should be allowed to look and smell. And after the pet goes out into the street, most likely he will forget about the new thing and turn his attention to something else. It is at this moment that you should put on a collar on your four-legged friend, you can praise, stroke for obedience and shown calmness. Further, it is recommended to pick up the control panel, demonstrate it to the dog and show affection, or treat her with a treat. After that, you can attach the remote control to the electric collar and let the dog wear it a little or put it in your pocket. In this case, the collar should be dressed so that it does not press or rub the dog’s neck. It does not need to be placed too low or high, it should be in the place where the dog has the thinnest part of the neck. During the first 7 days, the dog should wear a switched off collar and it is also not recommended to check it in action during this period. During a walk, you need to periodically press the buttons on the remote control, they emit a sound to which the dog walking next to it will 100% respond. The main thing is to make sure that this sound is not associated with pain and discomfort in the dog in the future. When working with an electric collar, the following rules must be observed: 1. Do not leave the device on the pet’s neck for more than 6–10 hours. 2. Every 2–3 hours you need to gradually move the collar, this is necessary in order for the contacts to move 1–2 cm away from the starting position. 3. Periodically it is necessary to inspect the dog’s neck, as some animals have very sensitive skin in this area and may cause irritation. If irritation is found, you need to remove the collar and do not put it on until it has passed. And if after a while it appears again, then you should change the device for inventions of another company. PROS • The compact size and rather small weight of the device does not interfere with the dog’s movement and habitual lifestyle. It helps to gradually control her behavior and cope with mistakes and pranks in time.• The impulses given to the pet can attract the attention of the pet and overwhelm it, and this helps to stop the wrong or incorrect actions.• The use of a collar allows you to control the dog from a distance, without resorting to screaming and violence towards your pet.• As a rule, the dog does not associate electrical stimulation received from the collar with negative influence from the owner.• The collar reminds the pet of the necessary rules during a walk, as well as develops a certain habit, which eventually remains in the pet’s memory and allows the owner to refuse to use this appliance.• When walking the dog, the owner can control the territory beyond which the dog can go.• An electric collar is a distinguishing feature of domestic dogs from stray ones, so if the owner is not around, the dog is unlikely to be caught by special services, and therefore not taken to a shelter.• Various kinds of rewards and snacks can help reduce the time spent on training with the use of a collar.• Some dogs are already aggressive and irritable after birth, and the use of an electric collar will stabilize their behavior for the better. CONS There are also disadvantages when using an electric collar, they are as follows: • Once the dog understands the involvement of its owner in the given impulses, it will be difficult to put this device on it.• The pet may have a negative attitude and aggression towards the owner, since they have excellent hearing and vision, which means they can match who presses the remote control button, after which an impulse arrives.• When showing aggression, the dog may not pay attention to the electric collar in action, but associate it, for example, with vibration from a passing vehicle.• Electrical impulses can cause fear and panic in a dog, and ultimately, such training can lead to the opposite effect.• The electric collar, after a while, causes the dogs to get used to electric shocks, which means that the strength of the electric impulses will need to be increased periodically. And this, in turn, can have a bad effect on the work of the dog’s heart, in some cases, a heart attack develops.• Some dogs do not immediately understand what the owner wants from them, putting this strange thing around their neck. The dog will be overtaken by apathy, he will refuse any movements, lie for a whole day, over time his psyche will be disturbed and the help of a qualified dog handler will be required to bring him out of this state. An electric collar as a device for educating and training your ward is a good and worthwhile thing. The main thing is to know how to use it correctly and not to apply it constantly. Advice from professional trainers: avoid creating an “unwanted connection” in the dog with the collar. In other words, wearing a radio collar should not cause negative feelings in the dog. Otherwise, the dog’s behavior will be directly related to the presence of a collar, and not be the result of practicing general obedience techniques. This effect can be prevented in quite simple ways: wear a radio collar for a while without using it, do not wear the collar, but take the remote control with you and vice versa, take a walk in an electrified radio collar and do not take the remote, etc. But even with the relative safety of this training method, one should remember: when using an electrified radio collar, it is necessary to strictly follow all the rules and training methods. Correct use of the device will avoid negative health effects of the dog. Therefore, before starting training with an electronic radio collar, professional trainers recommend that the owners be sure to undergo training themselves. With love to your dogs, DogRook
Dry Food or Natural Food?
Today, ready-made dry food is more and more actively used: they are advertised on television and on the Internet, they are recommended by breeders and veterinarians. But responsible owners still have questions: will this type of food harm the animal? Of course, it has its pros and cons. And if we talk a lot about the former, the latter are often neglected. Let’s try to compensate for this and look at dry food objectively. Pros of dry food The main advantage of these feeds is that they save our time, but there are several other, not so obvious advantages. Balanced composition Even not the best quality feed is balanced in proteins, fats, dry vitamins and minerals. This is not always the case with self-compiling a diet. And if we have to choose between two evils, any dry food is better than random feeding from the master’s table. Saving the family budget Dry food, even in the middle and high price category, will cost less than fresh meat, fish and vegetables. Comparison of dry food with canned food also does not use the latter (of course, when it comes to products of equal composition). Long shelf life Dry food can be stored without refrigeration for 12–18 months. While meat products in such conditions deteriorate in a couple of hours, and the main resources are saved for them. So the convenience of storage is an undoubted plus of dry food, and besides, they help out even when you need to leave the dog for a while: you can put dry granules into an auto feeder (or a regular bowl) and not worry about their freshness, which is impossible with wet food. Cons of dry food In this article, we will not touch on myths, but will only talk about those disadvantages that are really real and should be considered when choosing the type of feeding for pets. Dry food contains excess carbohydrates Although this minus is not relevant for all feeds, we are obliged to accentuate on it. Looking at natural products, we see where is bread and where is meat. But with feed it is somewhat more complicated. Coarse granules having a similar appearance vary in composition. Therefore, the choice of dry food should be approached with the whole rigor. In the list of ingredients of the first places have to be animal origin of animal protein (it is better if there are 3–5, not one). It is easy to overfeed with dry food Saturated foods are perceived as more satisfying, and dry granules sometimes seem “frivolous”, although, in fact, they are high in calories. This can be a serious disadvantage if the dog has an excellent appetite and the owner is not confused about the size of the portions. There is practically no moisture in dry food When feeding dry rations, it is necessary to monitor the pet’s drinking regime. Low fluid intake is considered one of the risk factors for urolithiasis. With canned food or wet foods, to maintain the body’s water balance, water can be obtained from food, but with dry food this will not work. Summing up Pros • the ability to choose the most balanced feed. There is no need to purchase additional vitamin complexes;• easy to use. There is no daily cooking, it is convenient to take with you on trips, to exhibitions;• does not need storage in the refrigerator, you can buy it “for future use”;• can stand in a bowl all day; Cons • despite the balanced content of all elements, dry food is a product of serious technological processing;• difficulty in choosing a suitable diet;• problems in case of withdrawal of feed from production;• allergic reactions occur more often;• application by manufacturers in the production of aromatic additives and flavor enhancers. What is often silent on the packaging.• rarely causes problems with the gastrointestinal tract — the dog eats the same way all his life.Next, let’s look at the pros and cons of natural feeding. There is an opinion that natural nutrition has no equal alternatives. Given the booming organic food trend, there is nothing unusual about this assumption. But if “natural” is so good, then why do we need dry and canned food? Let’s figure it out. The meaning of the above concept is that you give the most ordinary food that you yourself buy every day in the market or in the store. The main argument lies in the quality of the ingredients: it is assumed that such meat will be good by default, and the vegetables will be fresh and full of vitamins and minerals. Sounds good, but in practice it’s not that rosy. Everyone has heard that even in products intended for people, unscrupulous manufacturers and sellers shove various preservatives, flavor enhancers, color fixatives and so on. And although direct harm from them has not been proven, there is also little benefit. It turns out that there is no quality guarantee as such. The second controversial point is vitamins and minerals. A dog, like a person, has a need for certain substances that will ensure its health, smooth coat, strong bones and teeth. The most important thing is vitamins A, E, D3, as well as calcium and phosphorus. It seems that all this should be in the products that you give your dog, but the question remains, is it enough? At home, it is impossible to accurately assess, for example, the energy value of a chicken leg or the content of amino acids and trace elements in it. That is why, with “natural”, veterinarians always prescribe various nutritional supplements to avoid the risk of vitamin deficiency. Another not the most pleasant thing is the peculiarities of the reaction of the dog’s body to seemingly familiar products. Carried away by natural nutrition, many irresponsibly reduce the feeding procedure to “I give what I eat”, which is fundamentally wrong. Potatoes, turnips, and beans, for example, seriously overload the animal’s gastrointestinal tract, making food poorly digested and blocking vitamin B from entering the body. Wheat is the main cause of most food allergies among dogs, and any sweets, including candy , will certainly sooner or later lead to diabetes. Also, we must not forget that some ingredients can be deadly for our four-legged friends, especially chocolate, garlic, pomegranate, walnuts, onions and grapes. So it turns out that the notorious “natural” may be good, but it requires a serious study of the issue. With a great deal of confidence, we can say that few people are willing to spend so much time and energy to become a guru in matters of dog care. Here, by the way, there is an alternative — dry complete feeds of the super-premium segment. So, let’s summarize the advantages and disadvantages of natural nutrition: Pros • confidence that the pet gets meat for food, and not skin, bones and other components; • independent control of product quality; • the likelihood of developing urolithiasis decreases; • regular self-cleansing of the paraanal glands due to the density of feces. Cons • search and storage of natural products; • time spent on cooking; • the need to purchase additional vitamin complexes; • inconvenience with feeding while traveling; • the risk of calculus increases; • the need for strict adherence to the feeding regime due to prolonged digestion of food. Understanding the pros and cons of dry food and natural food, each owner will be able to organize feeding with convenience and benefit for the pet. The main thing to remember is that dogs are predators, and therefore meat is the basis of their diet. Therefore, an alternative to high-quality dry food can only be a diet composed of a variety of meat products with a small addition of plant foods. With love to your dogs, DogRook
First Aid to a Dog in Different Situations
Here are many situations where you can provide first aid and save your dog’s life. Then, of course, immediately run to the vet, but first help yourself. Self-medication and first aid for dogs First aid to animals is not self-medication. If your dog sneezes or itches, take time to go to the clinic. A visit to the veterinarian is always safer, even if it says on the Internet that this is nothing, it will go away by itself. It passes, but not always. If your dog stepped on a nail in the woods or fainted from the heat, don’t hesitate to help her. Go to the vet anyway, but do first aid first. These are actions without which your pet will become much worse very quickly. Let’s analyze the main cases when you can provide first aid to a dog and literally save his life. First aid for a dog in case of poisoning Symptoms: Drowsiness, confusion, loss of coordination, vomiting, salivation, seizures, foam at the mouth Poisoning is one of the biggest dangers that can occur both outdoors and at home. In this case, there is little that can be done without a doctor, so try to get the dog to the nearest branch office right away. If you are walking on the street in the city, most likely there is a clinic in the nearest block. First aid must be provided immediately: 1. Induce vomiting. Pour more water into the dog or press on the root of the tongue. Drinking can only be done if the dog is conscious. If the pet has lost consciousness, it is absolutely impossible to drink. 2. Give absorbents. Activated carbon — 1 tablet per 1 kg of weight, diluted in water. Then be sure to go to the vet. It can be difficult even for a doctor to determine the source of the poison and the course of treatment, so you should not self-medicate. How to help with heatstroke Symptoms: the dog is lethargic, saliva flows from the mouth, the dog cannot stand and walk normally, breathes frequently with wheezing, diarrhea and cramps may occur. It is important that all these symptoms occurred in hot weather or in an overheated space, otherwise the same symptom may be in case of overwork or illness. To help the dog, you need to remove the collar, move it to a cool place, wipe it with cold water. Compresses can be applied to the stomach, thighs, armpits. It is impossible to completely immerse an overheated dog in cold water so that there is no temperature jump. Give your dog plenty of water, and when he calms down and returns to normal, go to the vet. First aid to a dog with heat stroke is very important, because it is dangerous with internal consequences. Only a doctor can notice them, therefore, as soon as the dog comes to his senses, go to the clinic. First aid for a dog with hypothermia Symptoms: pale skin, cold to the touch, no sensitivity. The coat perfectly protects the dog from the cold, but in extreme situations the dog can get hypothermia or frostbite. It is all the more serious if the dog has injured a limb, has not eaten for a long time, is wet. The tips of the ears, paws, tail, breasts and groin are most affected. The skin on them turns pale and red. It is impossible to rub the damaged area, this can damage the weak point, and infection will begin. Never use heating pads and hot water. This can further damage the frostbite areas. A hypothermic dog should be brought to a warm place and gradually warmed: wrap it up with a blanket, place in a warm bath. After the dog is awake and warmed up, show it to the vet. If the dog chokes Symptoms: The dog cannot swallow, scratches its face, tries to spit something out If the dog is playing and choking, do not rush to pat him on the back. So you can only do harm. Wait a little, usually dogs will successfully spit out what they cannot swallow. But if the dog does not cope on its own, do not hesitate: 1. Open the dog’s mouth. If you can see the object, try to gently remove it with tweezers. Never put your fingers in your dog’s mouth, as this can only push the object harder. In addition, in such cases, dogs often bite, so fingers can be seriously injured. 2. If the object is very deep, it is better not to go down the throat yourself. You can only harm. 3. If the dog is small, turn it over and try to simply shake out the foreign object. If the dog is large, lift its hind legs up. The main thing is that the respiratory passage is directed downward so that the object falls out under the influence of gravity. 4. If that doesn’t work, tilt the dog’s head down and slap between the shoulder blades. Be careful if it is a small dog. 5. As a last resort, use Heimlich’s technique: tilt the dog’s head down, grab the dog from behind, press your fist on the stomach under the very ribs 3–4 times. If it is a small dog, you can press with your fingers. Be very careful not to break your ribs or damage your internal organs. If the object was hard and sharp, be sure to see your veterinarian to rule out internal damage. How to treat a dog’s wound Symptoms: open wound, bleeding Animals fight outside and can injure themselves on a sharp object. Normal scratches heal on their own, you may not even notice them. But if the bleeding is heavy, try a tourniquet or pressure bandage, and then go to the vet. Small wounds and scratches need to be disinfected. Ordinary hydrogen peroxide will work and will not hurt your cat or dog. Rinse the wound well. If the wound is in the lower part of the paw, it is better to bandage it so that dirt does not get there at first. Make sure that the pet does not lick or scratch the wound, otherwise it will take a long time to heal. If a dog is bitten by a wasp Symptoms: severe swelling at the site of the bite Dogs are often bitten by bees and wasps. The allergic reaction can be very severe, up to such swelling that the dog will find it difficult to breathe. To provide first aid to a dog in this case is simple: 1. Remove the sting from the bite site. Only bees leave a sting, wasps and bumblebees — no. 2. Wipe the bite site with ammonia or vodka 3. Apply cold to reduce swelling 4. Give anti-allergenic Allergy medication must be prescribed by a doctor, so go to him. For the next few days, make sure that the dog does not scratch the bite site, otherwise it will carry dirt there. If a dog is bitten by a snake, for example, a viper, you cannot do without a doctor. Get the dog to the hospital as soon as possible. How to prevent injury to pets More often than not, injury occurs because we let it happen. There are simple things to keep track of: 1. Never leave your dog in a car in hot weather. Even for a minute and with the windows open 2. Do not allow the dog to pick up from the ground. From this it is necessary to strictly wean, if it does not work out — to walk in a muzzle. 3. In the cold, it is better to dress the dog, especially to protect the paws. If the dog starts shaking, go home. 4. Do not walk near roads. Even the most well-mannered dogs will break off somewhere once a year. 5. All household chemicals should be safely hidden, as if from a small child. 6. Do not self-medicate. After providing first aid, immediately go to the veterinarian’s appointment. Take care of yourself and your pets! With love to your dogs, DogRook!
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